FAQ

1. Is hard wax still used in the field of aesthetics?
2. Can persons with a history of heart problems receive electroepilation treatments?
3. Why use toner?
4. Can I perform electrolysis on someone wearing a hearing aid?
5. What can I do to get rid of those nasty blackheads?
6. Should we apply sunscreen on top of day cream, especially if the latter already has UVA and UVB protection?
7. I would like to use my Apilus epilator to perform cataphoresis and anaphoresis treatments. Could you give me some advice?
8. When I last gave blood, I was asked if my electrologist uses disposable probes… why is that?
9. What type of skin care can be performed on persons with rosacea?
10. Can a pregnant woman receive electrolysis treatments?
11. What is the difference between an exfoliant and a deep-cleanser?
12. Can we apply day cream in the morning and evening?
13. Can we perform microdermabrasion in summer?
14. Why is there such a great price range among electrologists? Some charge $30 per hour while others charge $55 and even more in the United States and Europe...
15. What causes pigment spots?
16. How can I encourage my clients to purchase my products?
17. How can I keep acne under control?
18. Why and how to use cataphoresis after electroepilation?
19. Why should we use a specific Eye contour cream ?
20. Why do certain people have dark circles and puffiness under the eyes ?
21. How can I fight cellulite?
22. How to choose the right electrolysis probe ?

1. Is hard wax still used in the field of aesthetics?

Very popular in the seventies and eighties, hard wax lost some of its lustre in the nineties, mainly due to issues related to hygiene and application time. For example, filtering wax is no longer practised and hasn’t been for some years. Aesthetics learning institutes now overwhelmingly recommend the use of liquid wax. Hard wax, on the other hand, still yields excellent results for the bikini line and underarm areas. Thanks to its heat, it dilates ostia (opening of the hair follicle), which makes hair removal easier and provides a more comfortable feeling, when it is properly applied. But beware: if the wax is too hot when it is applied, it will promote the breakage of small capillaries Always remember that, regardless of the method used (hard wax, liquid wax and even sugar), the important factor is to go over the treated region as little as possible. Therein lies the true secret of a good depilation.

2. Can persons with a history of heart problems receive electroepilation treatments?

Persons with a history of heart problems should not begin treatment in an extensive area. Facial treatments are strongly recommended at first, with special attention to skin reactions. Persons who have suffered a heart attack, suffering from angina, taking anticoagulants or other medication to treat a heart problem, should wait at least six months, ideally one year before undergoing treatment, and should ask for medical clearance. The presence of a pacemaker absolutely precludes any type of electroepilation treatment. A file detailing the health condition of each client should always be filled out before starting any treatment, and updated at the start of each session. This allows the electrologist to advise clients appropriately, and ensure results in the best possible time frame.

3. Why use toner?

Toner is used to complete skin cleansing. It should be used in the evening after the cleansing milk, to remove the light oily film the latter leaves on the skin. Furthermore, the paths taken by skin-penetrating products (ostia, pores, etc.) are then completely free of all debris, which enhances the absorption of active ingredients in serums and creams.

In the morning, sometimes our skin feels thick and oily. Thorough cleansing again is not appropriate. It would only increase sebaceous secretions, because the skin considers a pH imbalance as an aggression increasing its secretions. and thus defends itself by it is more appropriate to simply wet a cotton ball with toner, and go over the entire face a few times. The result will be an immediate clean, fresh feeling.

To finish off, a tip to make your toner last longer: slightly dampen the cotton ball with water before pouring toner on it. This way, the cotton ball won’t absorb it all!

4. Can I perform electrolysis on someone wearing a hearing aid?

Yes, except in the case of cochlear implants, to avoid deprogramming the latter. In the case of external hearing aids, you should ask the client to turn them off for the entire length of treatment. An operational hearing aid may create a frequency problem, since it may generate a whistling sound due to the proximity of the epilator. This is a perfectly normal, yet undesirable, consequence. Furthermore, in this situation, an electrologist should be even more attuned to the client’s behaviour and remember that the client cannot hear her or just barely when the hearing aid is off. This example emphasizes the importance of a good consultation before undertaking any type of treatment, since modern hearing aids are so small they are nearly impossible to detect.

5. What can I do to get rid of those nasty blackheads?

The correct term is “comedones ”. They consist of secretions that build up on the skin and eventually become oxidized in contact with air, which explains their black colour. To eliminate them, the best strategy remains prevention: 1. thoroughly cleanse the skin morning and evening with products recommend for your skin type, such as LimpiDerm or DermaLiss of the Action de Gala line. Unsuited products may add to the problem. 2. Once or twice a week, use an exfoliate such as LibraMat of the Action de Gala line to help remove impurities accumulating on your face. 3. An antioxidant emulsion such as LibraMat of the Action de Gala line is also an essential ally, especially for smokers, subjects with oily skin or those exposed to the sun and pollution on a regular basis. 4. Avoid touching your face for no reason. 5. Meet your aesthetician for a skincare treatment at every seasonal change. The latter will be able to advise you on the use of cosmetic products at home.

6. Should we apply sunscreen on top of day cream, especially if the latter already has UVA and UVB protection?

The main purpose of the day cream is to maintain the skin balance. Its sunscreens are designed to protect it on a superficial level, during brief exposure periods only. Furthermore, the day cream is generally applied early in the morning. However, even in the case of a regular sunscreen, it is recommended to repeat applications every two hours for adequate protection. Applied on a regular basis fifteen minutes before exposure, a sunscreen therefore becomes essential. Even on cloudy days, 80% of the sun’s rays reach our skin… and so it becomes important to protect our skin at all times. Furthermore, for greater effectiveness, it is essential to keep all solar products away from sources of heat or humidity, and to change them every year.

7. I would like to use my Apilus epilator to perform cataphoresis and anaphoresis treatments. Could you give me some advice?

The “anaphoresis” mode may be used before any facial treatment to perform a deep-cleansing treatment: for example, after removing make-up and toning the skin, apply a negative-polarity ionizable deep-cleansing gel and adjust your unit between 0.2 and 0.5 mA. Perform circular movements on the skin using a sponge electrode, for 3 to 5 minutes. The “cataphoresis” mode is generally used before a facial mask, to enhance the penetration of applied products. Choose a positive-polarity ionizable product suitable for the client’s skin type. Adjust your unit between 0.5 and 1 mA, using the dual pronged or roller electrode, perform circular movements for 5 to 10 minutes. Make sure that deep-cleansing is always followed by a positive ionization in order to soothe the skin and restore its natural pH level.

8. When I last gave blood, I was asked if my electrologist uses disposable probes… why is that?

The question is extremely relevant. Unfortunately, still today, some electrologists keep, either in their client files or in small labelled vials, probes used for each client, in order to re-use them for upcoming treatments. A single moment of distraction on the part of the electrologist can in these cases be dramatic: the client could potentially be treated with the probe of another client! For blood banks, the risk of contamination needs to be as low as possible. This is why donors must answer this question. It is up to you, as a client, to make sure that your electrologist uses single-use disposable probes such as Pro-Tec probes, marketed by the Dectro Group. This should help confirm in your mind the electrologist’s concern for hygiene and safety, but also her professionalism; since probes do not last forever, treatment quality may be affected after a few sessions.

9. What type of skin care can be performed on persons with rosacea?

Treatments should only be performed in periods of remission. Avoid all scrubs and exfoliators, massages, manipulations and steam applications. Use only products adapted to the skin type: remember that rosacea is not a skin type per se but rather a skin condition. The objective is to soften, soothe, decongest, moisturize and protect. The ideal treatment will begin with a very gentle cleanser such as DermaLiss milk of the Action de Gala line, followed by a toner, such as ToniqA of the Action de Gala line. As needed, you can apply a concentrate which will regulate sebaceous secretions. Apply very delicately and lightly dab on to help it penetrate if possible. Then apply a mask with soothing, balancing and decongestive properties such as LibraDerm combined with Yi-zhiBaume of the Action de Gala line. Finish off with the application of a light day cream that contains a sunscreen, such as CutaNé of the Action de Gala line.

10. Can a pregnant woman receive electrolysis treatments?

A pregnant woman should generally not undergo elec trolysis treatments during the first three months of pregnancy. Why? In order to keep sources of stress to a minimum during this higher-risk period. After the first trimester, she can undergo hair removal treatments using high-frequency current only. No treatments using galvanic current or Blend currents are allowed, so you can also forget cataphoresis.

Galvanic current is not recommended as it has the ability to travel through the human body and could therefore affect the foetus. Thus, as a professional, it is your duty to ask about your client’s health condition prior to each treatment. If you decide to treat a pregnant woman with high-frequency current, you could also ask for medical clearance, to make sure her pregnancy is going well and no complications are expected.

11. What is the difference between an exfoliant and a deep-cleanser?

Exfoliation helps rid the skin of dead cells and enhance the penetration of products applied subsequently. Exfoliation may be performed on nearly all skin types. There are two types of exfoliant. Depending on how sensitive the skin is, you will use either a mechanical or a chemical exfoliant. On normal skin, a mechanical exfoliant such as ExoDerm of the Action de Gala line may be applied without hesitation.

However, if the skin is delicate, I recommend using a chemical enzyme-based exfoliant such as EnzyDerm of the Action de Gala line, which requires minimal manipulation.

Deep-cleansing is completely different from exfoliation. Deep-cleansing is performed to saponify sebum, rid the skin of impurities, facilitate comedo extraction and soften the horny plug. This type of care requires the use of a negative galvanic current and an ionizable deep-cleansing product such as LimpiDerm of the Action de Gala line. It is specifically suited for lipidic, hyperlipidic or acne-prone skins.

12. Can we apply day cream in the morning and evening?

Ideally, no. Day creams are generally formulated to protect the skin against weather related aggressions, to substantially replenish the skin’s water reserves and protect it from the relentless assault of UV rays and pollution. However, during the night, our physiological clock focuses our internal energy to revitalize the skin, restore tissue fibres and renew epidermal cells while the body is resting; sleep thus plays an important role in the body’s self-maintenance.

Night creams do not have sunscreen and are designed to work in the deepest layers of the epidermis. Active ingredients such as vitamins A, E, C, alpha-hydroxy acid derivatives, amino acids, liposomes, proteins and certain enzymes help nourish our skin and reduce the visible signs of skin ageing. Recommended products: in the Action de Gala line, CutaNé daily protective emulsion for the day and VittoSoin nourishing repair cream for the night.

13. Can we perform microdermabrasion in summer?

We have long considered it best to abstain from performing microdermabrasion in summer, but in doing so, we have deprived our clientele of excellent results! Don’t forget that for you, this means one less service to offer during the season. Take California for example: they have been practicing microdermabrasion for many years, even at very warm temperatures, and with great success. Summers in Québec are very humid, which helps keep the skin surface soft and supple. Of course, clients who undergo microdermabrasion in summer must absolutely avoid sunbathing, use a good moisturizing cream and a total sunblock such as OmbraCrème, of the Action de Gala line, at all times.

Even in the winter, clients must take care of their skin and protect it from the cold, the wind, the sun, and especially avoid tanning salons. Either way, clients who seek treatment for pigment spots or wrinkles, or who simply wish to have radiant skin will be inclined to take proper care of their skin. Of course, your judicious advice and product prescriptions are also essential! Furthermore, once microdermabrasion has been performed, we suggest complementing the care with a VitaPhase IM or SM dermaphasic device (available on the VitaPeel Ion), in order to reduce redness, inflammation and oedema. It also has a stimulating effect and promotes cellular renewal. Many women are interested in receiving this type of treatment during the summer season; it’s up to you to offer it.

14. Why is there such a great price range among electrologists? Some charge $30 per hour while others charge $55 and even more in the United States and Europe...

The Electrogist Association of Québec recommends an hourly rate of $40, although rates can be as high as US $ 75 in the United States, and up to € 100 and more in Europe! Rates vary according to the area where the electrologist is located, supply and demand, rent, experience, and by the growing number of strict hygiene standards that must be met.

Note the use of single-use probes, which must be discarded at the end of each session, the sterilization of tweezers for each client, and the disinfection of working areas, all of which result in higher costs for the professional. An electrologist may also decide to use an insulated probe, which concentrates energy at the tip, for greater comfort and effectiveness and to protect the skin surface. These probes are of course more expensive to purchase. Moreover, we should not forget all the towels, robes and slipcovers that must be changed and bleached…

The type of device used by the technician is also another very important factor in setting the hourly rate. Logically, a more technologically advanced and effective device will command a higher fee.

For example, a professional working with the new Apilus Platinum, which uses the ultrarapid 27 MHz frequency and offers superior effectiveness and comfort, should charge an hourly rate of CAN $ 65, US $ 100, or € 125, depending on the location.

15. What causes pigment spots?

Pigment spots are the result of repeated and unprotected sun exposure, but they can also be caused by a genetic predisposition, hormonal imbalance, pregnancy or contraceptive intake. The skin can also become pigmented due to inflammation after sustaining an injury, an irritating intervention or after prolonged exposure to UV rays.

Avoid splashing on alcohol-based perfume before sun exposure. Opt for the Lightening Serum by Gala which help prevent melanin oxidation at the skin surface and block free radicals. A course of 5 to 10 microdermabrasion treatments with the VitaPeel is also highly effective to minimize pigment spots.

And of course, always use a total sunblock such as OmbraCrème of the Action de Gala line, which can protect your skin against UV rays.

16. How can I encourage my clients to purchase my products?

You know, the secret to success in sales is to take time to offer products to your clients; that’s what they’re waiting for. A client who comes into your institute is open to the idea of purchasing beauty products, please don’t let her leave empty-handed, otherwise she will go shop elsewhere, and indeed she should. What a client wants is to be counselled. Who is in the best position to do so? Yes, you are! Offer to refresh her make-up, recommend a new cream for the change in season, listen when your client admits to being tired and depressed… Maybe a new blush would help in this situation! Your role is not to judge your client’s spending style… What may appear expensive to your eyes may not necessarily be viewed the same way by others! But you must OFFER if you wish to sell.

Try something new: from this day on, each client who comes into your institute should be offered a product or a treatment. Are you feeling uncomfortable? Prepare a prescription card indicating which products she should use and ask her if she wishes to purchase any today. I am convinced that you’ll be surprised about how much your sales can increase. So, ladies, sell those creams!

17. How can I keep acne under control?

Certain skins are genetically predisposed to acne, whereas for others, stress, environmental agents and hormonal changes are responsible for if. When the skin is not cleansed properly, sebum becomes oxidized, hardens and prevents the normal elimination of dead skin cells.

This is why proper hygiene is so important. In a beauty institute, aestheticians can help these afflicted skins by using a non-foaming deep-cleansing gel and a soothing lotion. To exfoliate, I recommend using an enzyme-based exfoliant that biologically digests dead skin cells without irritating the skin.

In cases of active acne, avoid extracting pustules and leave the skin alone. Treat inflammation with specialized topical solutions. It is also preferable to avoid facial massages; you can perform lymphatic drainage instead, which will eliminate toxins from the body. Then, choose a purifying and balancing mask and finish off with the appropriate protection cream.

18. Why and how to use cataphoresis after electroepilation?

Despite its effectiveness, cataphoresis is often neglected or forgotten. Nevertheless, this post-epilation treatment is what could make the difference between you and the competition. Cataphoresis offers many benefits. It can reduce the warm sensation, redness and oedema (small bumps on each ostium) which can be caused by electroepilation. Also, the electrical current stimulates the sebaceous gland which will secrete basic sebum. The hair follicle then becomes a potential area for bacteria proliferation.

The best reason to use cataphoresis after electroepilation is mostly to produce vasoconstriction of the follicular ostiums and restore the pH balance of the skin, in order to prevent any infection. Cataphoresis is an integrated option on all our Apilus electrolysis devices. It is done by applying an ionizable product on the skin in the positive pole and gauze moistened with water or a soothing lotion.

By using ionizable products, you maximize the effect of cataphoresis and the active ingredients of the product will penetrate deep into the skin of your client for its utmost benefit. When doing cataphoresis, do not forget to put the passive electrode (ground) as close as possible to the treated area in order to prevent galvanic current flow across the thoracic cage. The intensity of the galvanic current must always be adjusted according to the client’s tolerance. As for the active electrode to be used, it can differ from one area to the other. However, it is important to move the electrode very slowly across the area, in a continuous motion. There is no point in doing this treatment rapidly; it will be complely inefficient. As it is a galvanic current, cataphoresis has, of course, contraindications. If there is a certain risk, why not use the Gala Eternity HF high frequency device? It is your best replacement solution, since the Gala Eternity HF presents almost no contraindications. This way, you will always have an alternative in order to satisfy your clientele.

19. Why should we use a specific Eye contour cream ?

Since it has few sebaceous glands, the skin around the eyes has a tendency to sag and become dehydrated more quickly. Because it is extremely delicate, it quickly shows signs of aging as well as fatigue marks. Result: the look is dimmed and tired, there are rings around the eyes and the skin is wrinkled. With time, sags appear under the eyes, rings form and wrinkles develop in the corner of the eyes. The delicate skin around the eye contour requires the use of a cream composed of finer molecules than the cream used on the face.

Also, to avoid any burning sensation, the pH of this cream must match that of the skin. Four unavoidable rules to obtain an impeccable eye contour:

1. Remove all makeup every evening before going to bed.
2. In the morning and evening, apply a mild astringent lotion with a cotton pad.
3. In the morning and evening, apply an appropriate anti-wrinkle eye contour cream.
4. Once or twice a week, use a specific treatment.

In summary, the eye contour is one of the most fragile and sensitive areas of the face and therefore requires the most attention and care. Isn’t it said that the eyes are a reflection of the soul?

20. Why do certain people have dark circles and puffiness under the eyes ?

The skin under the eyes is extremely thin and more delicate. This region has less lymphatic and blood vessels, making it more vulnerable to dehydration. Many of the changes in this area can be attributed to genetics, aging, depression, fatigue, stress, exposure to pollution, bad blood circulation, constipation or medicines. Drinking a lot of water, uninterrupted sleep, no tobacco or alcohol intake can help diminish the appearance of these dark circles. A premium quality eye cream such as DuaLift from Action de Gala is a vital part of any skin care regimen.

Its advanced formulation of arnica montana flower extract, vitamin E, soy protein and green tea, stimulates blood circulation, moisturizes, reduces periorbital puffiness and fights free radicals. It can be used on all skin types every morning and / or evening. For faster results, a cooling eye mask previously chilled in the refrigerator can be placed over closed eyelids for several minutes.

Lymphatic drainage either it be manual or mechanical with VitaLift or VitaDerm apparatus is also recommended. This drainage method improves blood and lymph circulation, eliminates toxins, improves skin texture, activates cellular regeneration and oxygenation of the cells and skin tissues. It enhances the effectiveness of facial treatments and is an excellent flash beauty treatment. As always, make sure the client’s condition does not present local or general contraindications to this type of treatment and the type of current to be used.

21. How can I fight cellulite?

The only technology in the esthetics field that can effectively affect cellulite is the 3-MHz radiofrequency treatment offered by the Vital•Ultra body system. This frequency creates vibrations inside the skin (up to 2.5 cm deep) that can reach the hypodermis. The waves produced by this treatment turn into heat when they encounter tissue.

The vibrations and heat break down the membrane surrounding fat cells and the cells get compressed, expelling the captive toxins and fluids. These two elements are then absorbed by the lymphatic system which is also stimulated by heat. Only this technology can melt the hardened connective tissue that binds the fat cells and creates the orange-peel effect.

After a 3-MHz radiofrequency treatment, the appearance of cellulite is visibly reduced and the silhouette is slimmed down.